Hiking Along Italy’s Most Famous Backpacking Trail – Alta Via 1 in the Italian Dolomites (Part 1)

When I phoned my dad one day asking him if he would like to hike Alta Via 1 with me in the Italian Dolomites, he didn’t even blink before saying yes. He absolutely loved our adventure and keeps asking me when the next one is going to be!

Many months later (more than I’d like to admit) I finally put together a detailed guide to help you plan the Alta Via 1 for yourself! It became a part of a series of over 60 articles dedicated to hiking and photography in the Italian Dolomites. 

The Comprehensive Guide To Alta Via 1 – Part 1: Days 1-5

The first part of the guide covers an overview of Alta Via 1, answers questions on the best time of the year to hike it and what the average daily cost of the excursion is. 

I will also break down the first 5 days of the route including the path numbers, short summaries, photos and possible route extensions before we head over to the second part. 

In the second part, I will cover days 6-11. At the end of the guide, you will also find the list of most mountain huts along Alta Via 1 with their contact info as well as possible early escape routes for those who don’t plan on hiking the complete route.

Alta Via 1 – An Overview

Alta Via 1 Day 6 7

Alta Via 1 also known as the Dolomite High Route 1 is undoubtedly Italy’s most famous backpacking route. There are a lot of websites and printed guides out there giving contradicting information about the length of the route saying it is anywhere from 120 to 150 kilometres long. 

I measured the mileage with a Garmin GPS each day and the total kilometres amounted to 142 (not including the extensions). According to Garmin’s website, there is a 5% margin error when surveying the distances. 

The total elevation gain is 7200 meters (23600 feet) and elevation loss 8100 meters (26570 feet)

Unlike Alta Via 2 or Alta Via 4, both of which I have hiked during the same summer season, Alta Via 1 is a non-technical route. If you are a fit individual then it’s a great journey to undertake especially when you are just starting to dip your feet into the world of backpacking.

There are a few via ferrata which can be undertaken as extensions to the route and I will be pointing to them further along in my guide, however, you will need to pack extra equipment if you decide to tackle them.  

How to pack for Alta Via 1

The general rule for any hut to hut treks in the Dolomites is to go as light as possible. Thanks to the well-equipped huts there is no need to carry tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment or even food! 

Your backpack shouldn’t be bigger than 38 litres! For your convenience, I have written a comprehensive packing list, including links to my favourite gear and a downloadable checklist!

The optimal time of year for hiking Alta Via 1

Alta Via 1 Day 4 7 1

Hiking seasons in the mountains are usually very short and the Dolomites are no exception. Most huts on the Alta Via 1 stay open from the third week of June until the third week of September. 

You can expect snow to linger on the northern slopes as late as mid-July and if that’s when you’re planning your trip for, make sure to pack gaiters. I have hiked Alta Via 1 at the very start of the season and we encountered snow on most days, in some places a couple of meters deep! 

During the months of June, July and August the weather is very predictable. The days usually start with clear blue skies, by late morning the clouds begin to build up and in the early afternoon thunderstorms roll in. 

It’s smart to leave the huts right after breakfast and pre-pack before to avoid being caught in thunderstorms. 

The weather tends to be the most stable in September. Although the temperatures at night and mornings are below freezing, the days are still pleasantly warm and the skies often stay blue throughout the whole day. 

Where Does the Alta Via 1 Start?

Lago di Braies – the gem of the Dolomites marks the start of the route. There is a hotel right on its shoreline for those who would like to start early on the first day. 

If you are coming from abroad and using public transport you can travel to Cortina D’Ampezzo first. Cortina is one of the most charming tourist towns in the Dolomites.

There are a few shuttle companies operating between Venice and Milan airports including flixbus. From Cortina local buses run regularly to Lago di Braies. The journey takes around 1 hour. 

Where does Alta Via 1 end?

Alta Via 1 ends on a bus stop near La Pissa kind of in the middle of nowhere! Don’t worry though you won’t be left stranded. Buses do operate every hour and you can find the schedule in the last 2 huts you will be staying at. 

The bus will take you to the nearest biggest city – Belluno from where you can either travel back by bus to Cortina or to any other place in Italy by train. 

The Cost of Hiking Alta Via 1

Alta Via 1 Day 9 3

Out of the three Alta Vias I walked, I found Alta Via 1 to be the most expensive. There are a couple of reasons for it.

Firstly Alta Via 1 is the most famous backpacking trip in Italy. You will encounter people from all over the world in the rifugios. It’s a great opportunity to meet new friends as quite often you will be staying with the same people in the same huts throughout the whole traverse. 

Speaking of huts. The second reason why Alta Via 1 is more expensive is that quite often the huts are privately owned and provide higher service than on other routes.

A lot of them have been renovated into more fancy backcountry lodges rather than basic refuges. Some have modern booking systems on their websites and even started providing free Wi-Fi for their guests! 

I have a whole post dedicated to Italian mountain huts and what to expect when staying in them. 

In general, you should calculate for spending a minimum of 60 Euros/person/day on average, but 80-90 Euros is more of a realistic budget if you would like to have drinks, cakes or whatever else there is on offer. 

Apart from that, you should budget for the accommodation before and after the trek, transportation and any necessary gear purchases. 

An interactive map of Alta Via 1

I created the map below to give you an overview of Alta Via 1. I marked all mountain huts as well as day routes and extensions. Click on the button in the top left corner of the map to see the different layers and names of the places. 

Whilst pretty accurate this map should not be used when navigating through the mountains! For that, you will require a proper topography map. For crossing Alta Via 1 you need to purchase the TABACCO MAPS numbers: 031, 03, 025 either online or in any sport, souvenir or cigarette shop in the local towns. Even some rifugios sell them! 

Day 1: Lago di Braies to Rifugio Biella

Distance: 9.3 km / 5.8 mi

Walking Time 3h min

Elevation gain: 937 m / 3074 ft

Elevation loss: 120 m / 393 ft

Alta Via 1 Day 1 1

PATH NUMBER: 1

The first day is relatively short with only 9,5 kilometres (5.9 miles) to cover before you make it to the first refuge. The start couldn’t be more scenic – the turquoise Lake Braies surrounded by soaring peaks with Croda del Becco towering above them all. 

You will have two choices either to navigate the lake counterclockwise following the official route or clockwise,

a slightly quieter and more scenic of the two options. Once you make it to the other side of the lake the ascent starts. It’s important to start early as a lot of day 1 is spent on sun-exposed paths. Good sunscreen and a headcover is a must. 

Alta Via 1 Day 1 5

There is a short cable protected section around halfway to the hut but it’s only useful when the conditions are icy or wet. In around 3 hours following path no. 1 the whole way, you will reach Forcella Sora Forno (in Italian Forcella means a saddle or a pass). From here it’s a short descent to your first hut. 

Night 1: Rifugio Biella

Rifugio Biella is quite basic. If possible ask for a room which isn’t in the attic, where the walls are paper-thin. I hope you packed those earplugs! Spend the afternoon just enjoying the vast views from the terrace or head out and summit the nearby Croda del Becco! 

Extension: Croda Del Becco/Seekofel Summit

Alta Via 1 Extension Croda Del Becco 6

If you would like to hike to the top of Croda del Becco I recommend that you first check-in at the hut and leave most of your stuff behind. Take only the necessities and head back out to Forcella Sora Forna. 

A clear sign will point you in the direction of the summit route. From the saddle it’s around 2 hour round trip. My dad and I decided to do the summit hike for sunrise on the second day of the traverse and we made it back to the hut just in time for the all-you-can-eat-breakfast! 

From the summit, you can look down to Lago di Braies where you started the hike! 

Day 2: Rifugio Biella to Rifugio Fanes

Distance: 15.4 km / 9.6 mi

Walking Time 4h 15 min

Elevation gain: 654 m / 2146 ft

Elevation loss: 908 m / 2980 ft

Alta Via 1 Day 2 1

PATH NUMBERS: 6, 6A, 7

The day starts following a wide path that is used by off-road cars to carry supplies to Biella hut. Follow signs for rifugio Sennes which you will reach within one hour. By the way, this is a great alternative for a night if you prefer a bit more comfort or don’t plan on doing the Croda del Becco extension. 

Continue through the green pastures passing a few more wooden huts before you start the long descent to rifugio Pederu located at the end of the glacially shaped Tamersc Valley. This is a great spot to stop for a lunch and some scooped ice cream! Yes, they sell decent Italian gelato in the mountains! 

Don’t stay too long to avoid the midday sun as you will begin your ascent to rifugio Fanes on path no. 7.

At first, the route is exposed, then it plateaus for a bit, before gently climbing up again along a path leading through the forest.

After approximately 2 hours after leaving Pederu, you will reach rifugio Fanes. 

Night 2: Rifugio Fanes

Rifugio Fanes is an amazing hut and feels more like a fancy backcountry lodge. There is no phone reception in the area, but the hut offers free wifi between certain hours of the day. It isn’t very fast but it does the job.

Prepayment for the accommodation is required when booking in advance. Oh, and did I mention hot showers are included in the price? 

If the hut is full, rifugio Lavarella, a mere 5-minute walk away, is a great alternative and seems to attract a younger crowd. 

Day 3: Rifugio Fanes to Rifugio Lagazuoi

Distance: 14.5 km / 9 mi

Walking time: 4h 30 min

Elevation gain: 1086 m / 3563 ft

Elevation loss: 418 m / 1371 ft

Alta Via 1 Day 3 2

PATH NUMBERS: 11, 20B, 20

Day 3 was one of my favourite of the whole traverse. There are very few signs of civilisation as you continue the hike through the Fanes – Sennes – Braies National Park. 

The first couple of hours of the day is spent on path no.11 – an old military road. The views are idyllic. Green pastures, crystal clear lakes and streams, snow-covered peaks and very few people in sight. 

After that, the path branches off to the left as you begin the ascent to Forcella del Lago and enter the beautiful Cortina Dolomites. On a good weather day, you will be able to spot rifugio Lagazuoi from the saddle – your destination for the day.

From the saddle, you drop down through a steep gully to a small turquoise lake followed by another ascent through moon-like landscapes all the way to the hut.

We encountered a lot of snow on this part of the hike and sometimes sank in knee-deep making our ascent that much more difficult. The views from the terrace of rifugio Lagazuoi more than made up for the struggle. 

Night 3: Rifugio Lagazuoi

I have stayed in the Lagazuoi hut twice before and it made onto my list of the most photogenic mountain huts in the Dolomites! The rooms are cosy, it offers warm showers and a really nice breakfast!

Don’t miss the chance to summit the nearby Picollo Lagazuoi (only 30 minutes return trip from the hut) from where you can photograph the refuge and its awesome location. 

Day 4: Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Averau

Distance: 9.3 km / 5.8 mi

Walking time: 3h

Elevation gain: 370 m / 1214 ft

Elevation loss: 700 m / 2297 ft

Alta Via 1 Day 4 3

Day 4 gives a few path choices leading to the next refuge and I will cover some below. It’s best if you refer to the Tabacco Map 031 to visualise your options. 

PATH NUMBERS: 

Option 1: 401, 402, 441 

The shortest and fastest route takes you down on path 401 to Forcella Travenanzes then follows path 402 on the descent to Passo Falzarego. You then ascend on path 441 all the way to rifugio Averau.

This is the option I went for and I recommend it to anyone who plans on doing the extensions in the afternoon. If you are feeling lazy today you can also catch the gondola down to Passo Falzarego then continue hiking on path 441.   

Option 2: 401, 402, 412, 440

The original Alta Via route. This starts the same way as option 1 but passes Forcella Travenanzes and continues on path 402 to Forcella Bois. It then goes down and turns onto path 412 leading to the restaurant ‘Da Strobel. Afterwards, it crosses the road and follows path no. 440 passing lake Limides, rifugio Scoiatolli and finally ending at rifugio Averau 

Option 3:  Lagazuoi tunnels, 402, 441

If you would like to learn a little bit about the bloody history of Passo Falzarego this is a great route to take. The entry to the Lagazuoi tunnels is only a couple of hundred meters away from the Lagazuoi hut. The tunnels are dark and narrow so you will need a head torch and ideally a helmet to avoid bumping your head on the low ceilings.

Alta Via 1 Day 3 19

During bad weather, the tunnels are subjected to floods. This is what stopped me and my dad from going this way. I have explored the Lagazuoi tunnels the previous year so at least I didn’t feel like I missed out. 

Night 4: Rifugio Averau

I really recommend staying at rifugio Averau. Albeit slightly more expensive than other nearby options (rifugios Scoiatolli and Nuvolau) it offers exquisite food and the most comfortable mattresses on the whole traverse. Something one learns to appreciate after hiking all day long.  

Extensions Day 4: Via Ferrata Averau or Cinque Torri

EXTENSION 1: VIA FERRATA AVERAU 

Starting within a hundred meters from the Averau hut, via Ferrata Averau takes its name from the summit it leads to. I have done it the previous year for sunset and if it weren’t for the bad weather that rolled in in the afternoon of our 4th day on Alta Via 1 I would have loved to take my dad there to show him the amazing views from the top. Visit my post to see for yourself! 

Alta Via 1 extension averau 1

EXTENSION 2: CINQUE TORRI

If you choose the second variant for the day when hiking from rifugio Lagazuoi to rifugio Averau you will walk by Cinque Torri. It translates to five towers and it’s an interesting rock formation not far from the hut. There is an old military fort turned into an outdoor museum dating back to the First World War right at the foot of the towers. You can spend the afternoon exploring the area. 

Alta Via 1 extension cinque torri 2
Alta Via 1 extension cinque torri 1

Day 5: Rifugio Averau to Rifugio Citta Di Fiume

Distance: 14.5 km / 9 mi

Time: 4h 15 min

Elevation gain: 550 m / 1804 ft

Elevation loss: 1030 m / 3380 ft

Alta Via 1 Day 5 3

PATH NUMBERS: 452, 436, 458, 467 

Today you will cross another one of the very photogenic mountain passes of the Dolomites – Passo Giau. Throughout the whole day, you will be getting nearer to the unmistakable Mount Pelmo – one of the highest Dolomiti peaks.

You can recognise it by its distinct armchair shape.  Rifugio Citta di Fiume is located beautifully right at its foot. 

Unfortunately, the weather was not in our favour on that day. Most of it we spent hiking in a thick cloud and rain until it cleared up in the late afternoon (some pics below were taken the year before).

I didn’t mind though as for the rest of the trip we had perfect blue skies every day! The first 4 photos you see above were taken the previous year when I was exploring the area. 

Night 5: Rifugio Citta Di Fiume

Rifugio Citta di Fiume is quite small and it may not provide the same fancy services as the other huts on the first 4 days of Alta Via 1, but it makes up for it with a great atmosphere and delicious homemade food. 

GO TO ALTA VIA 1: PART 2

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Marta Kulesza

I am Marta Kulesza - the photographer and creator of www.inafarawayland.com. I come from Poland, but I've been living, travelling and working around the globe since I turned 18. A few years ago, during one of my trips to Scotland, I bought my first DSLR and my adventure with photography began. When I am not stuck to my computer editing photos, you can find me hiking somewhere in the mountains.

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  1. Great write up. Looks snowy, which exact weeks did you travel? Currently planning a trip for last week of June and wondering if likely to be similar. Did you require crampons?

    • Hi Ste! Thanks for stopping by. It seems like you missed the answer in the text. I do say that I hiked it at the very start of the season which was June 17th – June 27th. We had snow even on the last day of the hike, but apart from the approach to rifugio Lagazuoi on day 3 when the snow was slushy and we were sinking sometimes knee-deep in it, other times we were crossing the snowfields in the mornings when the snow was hard. We did not require crampons at any point, but gaiters may come in handy. I hope that helps!

  2. Hi Marta,

    Thanks for your amazing write ups and photos!

    I’m a female experienced hiker (not much climbing/mountain experience however as live in Australia) and hoping to hike either of the Alta Via 1 or Alta Via 2 solo in August this year. I much prefer less crowds and certainly don’t mind a challenge, however am also concerned about being unsafe in the mountains solo.

    So I guess I have 2 questions:
    1 -Which was more spectacular? Alta Via One or Alta Via Two?
    2 – Would you warn a solo traveller from doing Alta Via Two (i.e. is there lots of scrambling/unsafe sections?)

    Thank you kindly 🙂

    Dom

    • Hi Dom! THanks for stopping by. To try and answer your questions:
      1. It’s a tough call. There are days that I loved more on AV1 and days I loved more on AV2. If you want my honest answer I thought AV4 was the best, followed closely by the Dolomiti Brenta traverse haha. Whichever you pick AV1 or AV2 you won’t be dissapointed.
      2. You will always meet people along these traverses and can team up with someone. AV2 does require carrying extra equipment for the via ferrata section. A helmet is a must, but also harness and lanyard wouldn’t hurt, especially since there are a few very cool via ferrata extensions you can do, but also because there are some short cable sections with ladders, where you really should wear a helmet.

      Let me know if you have more questions!

  3. Hi Marta,
    thank you so much for you detailed articles! Plus, your pictures are amazing.
    I would like to ask your opinion cause my boyfriend and I would like to do a 4/5 day hike, but this will be his first experience on a multi-day hike.
    From what you’ve wrote I am in between the Tre Cime multiday traverse or part of Via 1.
    Could you please help me?
    1- considering the scenery, which one do you prefere?
    2 – we will be going on the 1st week of July, is Via 1 too crowded?
    3 – also, we have 10 days in total, so we can do day trips as well
    Thank you so much,
    Ana

    • Hi Ana! Thanks for visiting my site and your awesome feedback. If it is your boyfriend’s first multiday traverse then I think AV1 would be more suiting. As for your question. Considering the scenery you can’t go wrong with either one. 2) 1st week of July is considered high season but, to be honest you will meet fewer people on some sections of AV1 than on the Tre Cime traverse. The area around Tre Cime is very crowded during the high season because lots of people access rifugio Auronzo by car and hike the Tre Cime circuit in a day. Another thing to consider is the via ferratas along the traverse, you will need to carry proper vf gear with you to tackle those sections. As for day trips, there are a lot of possibilities for day hikes and day via ferratas which you can find in the day hikes category and via Ferrata category in my Italian Dolomites guide. Let me know if I can help further!

  4. Hi Marta,
    thank you so much for you reply, it was very helpful!
    If we do around 5 days of the via 1 I am looking at:
    Lake Braies / Sennes or Pederu / Fanes / Lagazou / Averau or Nuvolau
    What do you think? Is there any better option?
    And also, if we leave the car at the end of the hike (at Bai de Dones), do you know if there is transport back to Lake Braies?
    Thank you again!

    • hi Ana. AV1 starts at Lago di Braies, which you can reach by car or bus. I would recommend that you stay your first night somewhere in Cortina D’Ampezzo and book a hotel with the option to leave your car for a few days. There are also paid and secure parking lots in Cortina where you could leave your car. Then on your first day, you can take the bus to Lago di Braies. The journey takes around 1 hour. You then hike for the next 4 or 5 days following my Alta Via 1 itinerary. If you hike for 5 days you can exit at Passo Giau and from there catch the local bus to Cortina D’Ampezzo. If you look at the map you will see that it makes sense. I don’t recommend leaving your car at the start of the hike. If I do it myself I always leave the car either at the end or somewhere in the middle and use public transport on the first day of a backpacking trip to simply get it out of the way. From my experience when I finish any multiday trek the last thing I want to do on that day is mess around with public transport to get back to the car. I prefer the car to be waiting for me already 🙂 Let me know if that helps!

  5. Thank you Marta!
    That was a great idea. I didn’t know about Passo Giau.
    Our dates have changed, and we’ll have to go in mid June. I am worried about the snow, so just to we get a taste of the multi day experience I booked the Lavarella and da Lagazou huts. Not sure if I should take the chance with the Sennes (as the Biella is closed), or be happy with the 2 nights?
    Thank you again!

    • Hi Ana. No worries. I have hiked AV1 in 2019 and we started exactly on June 18th. That was the first-day rifugio Biella was open. There was still a bit of snow when hiking up to the pass, but nothing impassable. We were able to hike without any crampons. This year there was less snow in the Alps compared to previous years so you might even be lucky and have none in June. If sennes is open then do consider staying there for your first night. Good luck! Let me know how it goes!

  6. Hello, I have loved reading many of your articles… It’s definitely inspired many adventure plans for me! I had a question I wondered if you may have advice on… I’ll be hiking Alta Via 1 in late June, and am trying to find a way to send a bag from the start (Lago Braies or Cortina) to Belluno to pick up at the end. I have only found taxi services that are around 300 euros for that (which seems like a lot for one small bag). Do you know of any better ways to send a bag? Thank you so much!

    • Hi Wendy. Thanks for stopping by and for your great feedback! Unfortunately, apart from sending it via post, I don’t know of any place or services that do it. What I would recommend is that you travel to Belluno first then leave it at a hotel in Belluno and travel up to Braies with just the backpack that you will use for your trek. Sorry I couldn’t help any further! Let me know if you have more questions!