Croda Da Lago is one of the most distinctive mountains in the Dolomites. Its jagged peaks are the perfect example of the weathering these ranges undergo. Because it is close to Cortina d’Ampezzo, one of the main hubs for exploring the Dolomites, this trail is popular all summer. However, it comes to life during October when the surrounding larch valleys turn all manner of gold and orange. If you can, plan your hike around Croda da Lago then.
Total round-trip distance
12.9 kilometres / 8 miles
Elevation gain
820 meters / 2690 feet
Time required
5-6 hours
Overview of the Croda da Lago circuit
As the name suggests, the trail navigates around Croda da Lago, a jagged mountain range near Cortina d’Ampezzo. The hike can be divided into two parts—the first leads to Lake Federa and the Palmieri mountain hike, and is of moderate difficulty. The second part takes you higher over two mountain saddles, then drops sharply over a large boulder field. If you are not comfortable with sharp descents, you can turn around at Lake Federa and return the way you came.
The trail can be walked clockwise or counterclockwise. Going counter-clockwise is suitable for someone who prefers sharper ascents and gentler descents.
The map & elevation profile of the Croda da Lago circuit hike
Important info about the hike
Because it is close to Cortina, one of the main hubs for exploring the Dolomites, the Croda da Lago circuit is popular all summer. However, it comes to life in the second half of October, when the surrounding larch valleys turn a range of gold and orange. This is why the Croda da Lago Circuit is one of the best autumn day hikes in the Dolomites. If you can, plan your hike then.
When to go: June – October
Trail difficulty: moderate to hard
Trail numbers: 437, 434, 436, 435
Type of hike: Circuit
Highest point: 2462 m / 8077 ft
Parking/trailhead: Ponte di Rucurto
Map required: Tabacco Map no. 03
Nearest towns: Cortina d’Ampezzo
Getting there
Most people completing the circuit begin the hike at Ponte di Rucurto on path 437. There are other ways to reach the lake, which you can study by looking at the Tabacco Map no. 03, but to keep this article concise, I will skip to just one.
By bus
During the summer season, approximately mid-June to September, buses run daily between Cortina and Passo Giau.
The nearest bus stop to the trailhead is called Pian Del Pantan. The journey from Cortina takes approximately 22 minutes. Look for schedules on the Dolomiti Bus Website.
By car
From Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow the regional road no. 48 towards Passo Falzarego, then turn left onto provincial road no 638 towards Passo Giau. The distance from Cortina to the trailhead is 10 kilometres, and the drive takes approximately 15 minutes.
There is a small parking area next to the trailhead, along with roadside parking spaces where many people leave their cars. This is a busy trail, so please arrive early in the morning; otherwise, you risk not finding a spot.
TIP: Buses usually operate during the peak season. You must have transportation if you are travelling mid-season (mid-September to November). You can rent a car with Discover Cars.
Trail description
Stage 1: Ponte di Rucurto to a fork (30-40 minutes along path no. 437)
The main route from Ponte di Rucurto starts with a lovely jaunt along a wide path through a thick forest. Soon you’ll cross Ru Formin (stream) on a scenic wooden bridge where you can enjoy the sound of cascading water. Once safely on the other side, a short uphill burst brings you to the first major crossroads. Now, you must decide whether you’re circumnavigating clockwise or anti-clockwise around the Croda da Lago mountain range.
Stage 2: Fork to Lago Federa/Rifugio Palmieri (1.5-2 hours along path no. 434)
At the crossroads, continue straight on path 434, but remember you’ll be returning on the path to your right. The trail switchbacks steadily uphill, but the views provide constant motivation. There is a great lookout, only a minute’s detour from the trail, offering views of Cinque Torri, Cortina, and the beautiful Tofana di Rozes. Eventually, the trail lessens in grade, and soon enough, you’ll enter the ‘official grounds’ near Lago Federa. A sign prohibiting freedom camping will welcome you near the shoreline. You will arrive at the northeast corner of the small lake. If you keep going straight, you will reach the hut quickly. However, I recommend turning right and walking around the shore, admiring the reflecting Beco De Mezodi in the distance. You’ll spot Rifugio Palmieri on the opposite side of the lake.
Stage 3: Rifugio Palmieri to Forcella Ambrizzola and Forcella de Formin (1.5-2 hours along paths 434, 436, 435)
Continuing on the Croda Da Lago circuit, you’ll notice a distinct drop in numbers on the trail after Rifugio Palmieri. The route continues to ascend, but it is still on path no. 434, until reaching Forcella Ambrizzola. This is the point where the Croda da Lago circuit breaks away from the world-famous Alta Via 1 by turning right onto path no. 436, then shortly right onto path no. 435. Forcella de Formin, the trail’s highest point at 2462m, is your next point and offers excellent views back toward Monte Pelmo.
Stage 4: Forcella de Formin to the Ponte du Rucurto trailhead (1.5 – 2 hours on paths 435 and 437)
This is the hardest part of the Croda da Lago circuit. The descent is quite sharp, and you must take significant steps to navigate the boulder field. Once past the Forcella, the route quickly descends through several boulder fields before entering a thickening larch forest. At the right time of year, dreams are made of this: a trickling stream, golden larches, very few people, and stark mountains. Unfortunately, like most things, the solitude ends when you reach the main fork, which you were at earlier in the day during stage 1 of the path. A left turn onto path 437 will take you back to your vehicle.
Overnight stay & dining possibilities
Rifugio Palmieri (also known as Croda Da Lago) is one of the best huts in the Italian Dolomites and also one that stays open the longest. Most years, you can stay in the hut until the start of November. The hut has 50 beds across dormitories, and a new extension is under construction. It also offers hot showers and includes a small outdoor sauna. For current prices and information about the reservation and cancellation process, visit the hut’s website.
Read more: Everything to know before staying in a mountain hut in the Italian Dolomites.
Where to stay nearby
The nearest town to the Croda da Lago circuit is Cortina d’Ampezzo, which happens to be one of the main hubs for exploring the Dolomites. With access to countless trails and via ferratas, you won’t be bored during your stay. For anyone interested, I wrote a 2-5-day itinerary for Cortina d’Ampezzo, and a post outlining the great hikes and via ferratas you can do from here. Below are some of my hotel recommendations in Cortina.
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If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below!
Hi Marta, your site has been an absolute treasure trove whilst planning for my own autumn adventures – thank you so much for sharing your knowledge so freely.
If I may just ask a quick question – Rifugio Palmieri is closing early this year on Oct 17. I’ve initially planned to do this hike in the last week of October (Oct 22/23) as per your autumn road trip itinerary. Is it worth moving it forward for a more relaxed sunrise at the lake, instead of potentially having to deal with black ice/a dangerous drive in the dark to get to the trailhead early enough? I’m worried that Oct 16-17 colour might not be too great, but could well be wrong.
Thanks so much!
Hi Erin. Thanks so much for stopping by. Sorry to hear that the Palmieri refuge closes so early this year. I actually stayed there again last year, exactly on October 17th, and the autumn colours were fantastic (the panoramic photo with the sun star taken at sunrise is from last year). Mid-October is a great time in the Dolomites at higher altitudes. In the valleys, you have to wait slightly longer for peak autumn colours.I hope that helps!
Thank you so much for your help Marta – that’s so good to know.
Hi Marta.
Just wanted to thank you for the inspiration and information. I visited the Dolomites this September/October and your posts have been most useful in the research phase and while hiking, your photos served as reassurance that I’m on the right path. Keep up the good work, and write and share photos of shorter and medium hikes. I was travelling with my 69 year old mother, who after two consecutive 20 something km hikes needed an easy day.
PS. have you been to the Gorges Federa hike? Its absolutely beautiful and not too hard
Hi Katalin. Thanks for your great feedback. I am so glad to hear you had a great time and kudos to your mum for keeping up with the hikes. Croda Da Lago is certainly not the easiest one!
Thanks for the tip about the Gorges. Having been there yet.
Hi Marta, thank you for the all the details in your informative guide! May I just confirm if it is safe to leave a rental car overnight near the trail head if I stay overnight at the Rifugio? It sounds like a great way to break up the hike, though I’ve been having trouble accessing their website..
P/S Jasper is so handsome and lucky to get to go on these wonderful hikes with you!
Hi Rowan. Thanks for visiting. I can only answer this based on my own observations. I have left my van parked on trailheads with all my belongings in it countless times and often for multiple days and never had any problems, but I also never left any valuables in sight. I hope that helps!
Hello Marta,
Thank you for so many useful informations regarding the hike.
We are planning to hike Dolomites in October and I am wondering if this trail will be crowds free at that time… I guess yes, but just to be sure.
Thank you in advance!
Hi Vanja. October generally sees only a fraction of the traffic that you have in July and August. With that said the Palmieri refuge stays open until the start of November (one of only a few that stays open that long). This also is a stunning photography spot so you can expect people around the lake and the refuge. As soon as you hike past the lake though you will hardly meet anyone. I hope that helps!
Hi Marta! Super love your blog and really your approach to experiencing the nature. In the Dolomites now and your articles are very helpful for planning routes. I went up Croda da Lago yesterday and would mention just a couple of things…
First is that the trail plays out just as you described. At the junction to take trail 435, the sign now reads “Forcella Rossa” with no mention of Forcella de Formin (can send a pic if helpful).. judging by pix, I think these are the same place / just two different names.. just to mention as this may be confusing to some
Second is that I took an extension to Passo Giau on the 436 trail and this was the most beautiful part of the day, just amazing views of green ridges and great picnic spots.
Thanks again for your great work here… cheers!
Hi Keith. Thanks for visiting, you actually cross two saddles when doing the circuit. First comes forcella Ambrizolla then De Formin. Since you continued to Passo Giau then you didn’t cross the second one. It also seems like you took a little shortcut over Forcella Rossa. All good though, there are so many trekking paths in the Dolomites more often than not there is more than 1 way to get to your destination.
Hello Marta,
I absolutely love your site. It’s an amazing resource with very detailed and extremely valuable and helpful information. Thank you very much for the amazing work that you do, and for inspiring us to fulfill our dreams, by showing us that it is not that difficult or out of the realm of possibilities to be fulfilled, on any budget. I truly appreciate your efforts.
My son and I are heading to the Dolomites this summer, first week in July and plan to do this hike. We have reservation for the night at Rifugio Croda da Lago/Palmieri. Our plan is to leave Venice very early, at first light, drive directly to the trailhead and hike to the rifugio for the night. The next day, we plan to continue the hike, drive to the trailhead for Croda Fiscalina and hike the first 2 1/2 hours to Rifugio Zsigmondy Comici, where we have reservations for the night. We are in decent shape but is allowing a lot of time for hiking at high elevations (we live at sea level), hence breaking up the hikes this way. Plus we are avid photographer enthusiasts and so is allowing a lot of time to stop and enjoy the beautiful scenery and also to capture it.
Can you help me with some logistics, please? In your article you recommend completing this hike clockwise. However, given that we’ll have more, practically the whole day, to hike from the trailhead to the rifugio, can we hike counter-clockwise? What would be the disadvantage of completing the starting the hike this way? Is the rifugio basically 1/2 between the start and end of the trail and so it doesn’t matter which direction we hike in? We were thinking of hiking counter-clockwise as it seems a longer distance from the rifugio back to the trailhead, if hiking clockwise, is this true?
Your advice and guidance would be much appreciated. Thank you very much.
Best,
Deby
Hi Deby. Thanks for visiting my site.
Firstly don’t worry about elevations. The change is hardly noticeable until 3000 meters and at no point, you will be that high, so don’t worry about any altitude sickness, etc. Headaches at these heights usually come from dehydration so keep hydrated at all times.
As for your question regarding Croda Da Lago circuit (I am currently updating this post hence it’s a bit all over the place atm), yes you can hike it in reverse (counter clockwise). The challenge will be going up the boulder field and it will probably take around 4-5 hours for you to get to the hut then 1.5-2 hours from the hut the next day to get back down to the trailhead. As for the boulder field It is quite steep, but some people actually prefer a steeper approach and gentler descent. It’s definitely more knee friendly that way. As for the view, there is no real advantage of going clockwise or counterclockwise and it makes sense that you want to go counterclockwise to be back at the trailhead as early as possible.
Driving times are quite long in the Dolomites so it will probably take over an hour to drive from Ponte Di Rucurto to the parking lot near Hotel Dolomitenhof and then start the trek. I would probably skip the breakfast at Croda Da Lago and head straight for the next trailhead, then have some food ready in the car. The only thing to bear in mind is that by midday the peaks are usually in the clouds then afternoon storms approach before it clears up again in the evening.
I hope that helps!
I have been walking alone in the Swiss Alps for nearly thirty years and your comments on walking alone are the most balanced and sensible I have seen.
Hi Geoffrey. Thanks for your feedback. I do appreciate your comment. Safety first!
“Once past the Forcella the route quickly descends through several boulder fields …”
We didn’t know what this meant until we spent an hour working our way through the Boulder fields. I guess quickly means a lot of elevation loss as opposed to a short of amount of time. In any event, this is quite an unpleasant part of the suggested route and I would suggest that it needs more emphasis in your write up. I suspect that most people would not enjoy this type of hiking. We were thinking that a better route is to hike past the Refugio to the saddle for lunch to get the view of the mountains in the other direction, and then simply retrace the route as an in and out instead of a circuit.
Hi Stephen. Thanks for your input. Sorry to hear about the troubles you had on the boulder field. I will take your suggestion and edit the text so it will be more helpful in the future for other hikers. I personally prefer the circuit, not retracing the steps back the same way, but not everyone is up for boulder hopping and as you said it does get steep. Appreciate the input and enjoy the rest of the trip!
Hi Marta, firstly can I just say I think your website is wonderful and I have been using it a lot to plan my upcoming trip to the Dolomites in October! I am visiting from 6-13th October and planning on spending my 1st couple of nights in Cortina (followed by a night in Braies and then 3 in the Val Gardena area). As it will be autumn I think this circuit of Croda da Lago will be perfect. However, I will be on my own and just wondered if its OK to walk alone here ( and generally in the Dolomites)? I will have a car and will plan to start fairly early as I enjoy photography so will no doubt be stopping all the time for photos! Is it essential to have maps of the local area and a compass or is it enough to have my phone? I am used to walking in the English Lake District but I have never walked abroad before.
Many Thanks,
Sarah
Hi Sarah, thanks for visiting and for your kind words about my site. I am very happy to hear you find it useful. As it happens last week I published a 7-10 day itinerary around the Dolomites which includes all 3 areas where you will be staying so you might want to check it out
As for your question, generally, it is very safe to solo hike around the Dolomites and I reckon as soon as you do one hike you will gain a lot more confidence to do more. Everything is very well marked etc. However, you still need to obey certain rules. Always let someone know where you are heading out and when you plan on being back. Wear proper clothing and footwear and know where you are heading (for example the names of the mountain passes, huts or route numbers). As for maps, it’s down to personal preference. I always have a tangible map with me. Firstly because it’s probably the most accurate resource which doesn’t rely on charged batteries of your phone and secondly because I just like to collect the. I hope this answers it for you. Let me know if you have any more questions. Happy travels
Hi Marta!
I was wondering if it was possible to reach this trail using public transport? I’m going to Cortina in July and we won’t have access to a car.
We are doing the tre cime circuit, but I am looking for another great day hike that we can do!
Hi Rachel. Thanks for stopping by. Yes, it is possible. There is a bus stop on the opposite side of the road from the trailhead called Pian del Pantan. Bus is usually operated by the Dolomiti bus company. Unfortunately, their website is very user-unfriendly and schedules very difficult to work out, but I am sure you will be able to get the schedule in the Cortina visitor Centre. Let me know if I can help further!