When I first backpacked the Tonquin Valley Trail in July 2017, British Columbia, the neighbouring province, was engulfed in horrific wildfires that forced the evacuation of almost 40,000 people! The wind, blowing east at the time, carried a lot of haze. Bear this in mind as you scroll through the photos.
Because of the impressiveness of the Tonquin Valley, the first thing I did upon returning to civilisation was book another 4 nights on the trail a couple of months later. It’s not something that happens very often with a hiking list as long as mine.
The second time I went in September 2017, we had 4 days of rain and snow, and I hardly took any photos. You know what they say: the third time’s a charm.
Everything to know about hiking the Tonquin Valley Trail in Jasper
Tonquin Valley overview
Winding through the western valleys of Jasper National Park, the Tonquin Valley is a multi-day hike in the Canadian Rockies that should be VERY high on your bucket list. It’s a 44 km horseshoe-shaped relocation trek with plenty of side trips.
For most people, the pinnacles of the hike are the two Amethyst Lakes. About 20 km from either trailhead, and lying directly below the Ramparts, they mark the trail’s halfway point.
The Ramparts are a very distinctly jagged mountain range placed right on the Great Divide – the continental divide of the Americas.
How many days are required to complete the Tonquin Valley Trail?
Whilst the hike can be done over two long days, I recommend spending at least 4 days and 3 nights to take in the scenery.
Despite its beauty, I’ve noticed the Tonquin Valley is one of the least crowded backpacking destinations in the Rockies. There are a few reasons for it, which I’ll get to in a bit.
What makes it unique among other trips is the high likelihood of spotting Moose, black and Grizzly bears, and Woodland Caribou. Only a few hundred of them still live in this part of Canada.
When to backpack the Tonquin Valley Trail?
The official backcountry camping season on the Tonquin Valley Trail lasts from the end of June until the end of September.
However, if you want to have a good time backpacking through the Tonquin Valley, I recommend waiting until later in the season, hiking between mid-August and the end of September.
July
A good month for hiking in the Rockies; however, given the location of the Tonquin Valley, going in July is like shooting yourself in the foot.
I first backpacked the Tonquin Valley trail in July, and it was a disaster. Here is why. In July, wildfires are common in the Canadian Rockies, and lightning storms usually start them.
During some years, the haze in the skies from wildfires is so bad that you can’t see further than a couple of hundred meters. Not to mention the poor air quality. But that’s not the worst.
Because of the swamps and lakes nearby, the Tonquin Valley is a perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes. Millions of them hang around in July, making your life miserable. You must move constantly or sit in your tent to avoid being bitten. None of those is a viable option, especially when preparing meals.
August
Most of the mosquitoes are gone by August, particularly in the second half, but the days are still warm and pleasant for backpacking through the Tonquin Valley. This is an excellent time for making those backcountry reservations!
September
September is an excellent month to backpack through the Tonquin Valley, primarily if you aim to spot Woodland Caribou. They like to hang around the marsh ground during that time of the year. It’s also an excellent time for photographers as the trees change colour.
The downside to backpacking in September is the cold nights. And by cold, I mean really cold, even down to -10 degrees Celsius. Don’t even think about leaving the trailhead without a proper sleeping bag.
When to book the Tonquin Valley Trail for summer 2026
Reservations for the Tonquin Valley Trail for the summer 2026 launch on Wednesday January 28, 2026 at 8AM Mountain Standard Time
Due to limited space and the ever-increasing popularity of multiday hikes in the Canadian Rockies, spots disappear within minutes once the reservation system opens. Do not miss those dates, and be ready to go through the reservation process swiftly!
TIP: You couldn’t get a booking? Receive a text message when a cancellation occurs. Just register with Outdoor Status, pick dates to track, and get notified when a spot opens.
How to make reservations for the Tonquin Valley Trail for the summer 2026 backpacking season
- Go To the Parks Canada Reservation Website
- Choose Backcountry Tab
- Click the Backcountry Zone
- Choose Jasper
- Select Park, Arrival, Party Size, Tent Pads
- Select Access point: Astoria or Portal Creek Trailhead, depending on which way you decide to walk it
- Choose your campsites and reserve
TIP: Make sure to set up an account with Parks Canada before the Reservations open
The cost of backpacking the Tonquin Valley Trail in the summer season of 2026
As with many other backcountry trails in the Canadian Rockies, there are 3 costs involved in reserving and hiking the Tonquin Valley trail:
- Reservation fee: $11.50 per online reservation ($13.50 per phone reservation)
- Camping fee/Wilderness pass: $13.50/person/night,
- National Park Entry Fee: $10.50/person/day*
If, for example, you decide to spend 2 nights on the Tonquin Valley Trail, you will need to pay 11.50 + (2 x $13.50) + (2 x $10.50) = $59.50
*For the latter, consider purchasing an annual Parks Canada Discovery Pass, especially if you will be visiting any national park in Canada for more than 7 days in one year. Group and family options are also available.
The relocation between the Tonquin Valley trailheads
There are two access trailheads to Tonquin Valley: Astoria and Portal.
I think using Astoria as your starting point makes the trail easier to follow. Although not a huge difference in elevation, the Astoria Trailhead is 200m higher than the Portal Trailhead, which means less effort for you when hiking in. It will be noticeable whilst lugging around a 15kg backpack.
Hitchhiking
The most efficient way to tackle the trail is to park at the Portal trailhead, then hitch a ride to the Astoria trailhead and start hiking. This way once you finish the hike at Portal, your vehicle will be waiting for you.
Bringing two cars
If you plan to hike with a larger group, come with two cars and leave one at each trailhead.
There is ample free parking at both trailheads. Whilst the Rockies are generally safe, car break-ins do occasionally occur, so make sure not to leave any valuables in sight in your car.
Starting and ending at the same trailhead
Currently, there is no chartered bus service between the trailheads and taxis charge a big flat rate for the 20-minute journey.
If hitching isn’t your thing and you understandably don’t want to spend $100 on a short taxi ride, consider returning to your point of origin. Just remember, the Astoria Trail is easier, but Maccarib Pass, accessed via the Portal trailhead, is more scenic. Take your pick.
Where to stay in Jasper before and after the trek
If you plan on backpacking the Tonquin Valley Trail, I highly recommend staying the night before in Jasper so you can start the next morning with fully charged batteries.
Below are a few of the top-rated places in Jasper. If you found my article helpful, consider supporting my site by booking through the affiliate links—it costs you nothing!
Accommodation on the Tonquin Valley Trail
Campsites
| Campsite name | Distance from the Astoria Trailhead | Distance from The Portal Creek Trailhead | Elevation |
| Astoria | 7.1 km / 4.4 mi | 36.2 km / 22.49 mi | 1690 m |
| Switchback | 13.8 km / 8.57 mi | 29.5 km / 18.33 mi | 2067 m |
| Clitheroe | 17.2 km / 10.68 mi | 26.1 km / 16.21 mi | 2080 m |
| Surprise Point | 16.7 km / 10.4 mi (via Chrome Lake) | 28.5 km / 17.7 mi | 1978 m |
| Amethyst | 20.4 km / 12.67 mi | 22.9 km / 14.23 mi | 1985 m |
| Maccarib | 23.8 km / 14.78 mi | 20.1 km / 12.49 mi | 2012 m |
| Portal | 34.6 km / 21.49 mi | 10.2 km / 6.34 mi | 1979 m |
Which campsites to book?
To make the most of your experience on the Tonquin Valley trail, you should ideally book the following campsites:
- Surprise Point, Amethyst Lakes, Portal Creek (if you are completing the horseshoe relocation), or
- Surprise Point, Amethyst Lakes, and Switchback or Astoria (if you are walking in and out the same way from Astoria).
Amenities and campsite rules on the Tonquin Valley Trail
- Bear lockers
- open-air outhouses
- benches for cooking food
- running creek water (not treated)
- grey water disposal
- No dogs allowed
- No hammocks allowed
- No fires allowed
Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge & Adventures Lodge
To bolster the dwindling caribou population in Jasper National Park and limit the number of tourists visiting this fragile area, Parks Canada bought out both Backcountry Lodge & Adventures Lodge. As of 2023, both lodges ceased operations.
Wates Gibson Hut (ACC)
How to reserve the Wates Gibson Hut for summer 2026
The Wates-Gibson hut can accommodate up to 26 hikers in the summer. The current prices are CAD 50 for Alpine Club of Canada members and CAD 60 for non-members. Prices are charged per person per night.
Alpine Club of Canada members can reserve the hut up to 6 months in advance, while non-members can reserve it only up to 3 months in advance.
You can make a reservation directly on the ACC website
Wates Gibson Hut facilities
- mattress pads (BYO sleeping bag)
- propane stoves with propane provided
- outhouses
- Propane lighting
- Wood stove for heating with wood provided
- Untreated creek water (or snowmelt)
A Few Packing Essentials For The Tonquin Valley Trail
Backpack
For multi-day backpacking trips where I have to carry a tent and food, I use my trusted Osprey Ariel AG backpack with a 65-litre capacity and its anti-gravity harness system
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Lightweight backpacking tent
I’ve had the MSR Hubba Hubba NX for years now and used it on every single backpacking trip I did in the Rockies. So far I have no tears and all the poles are still intact. Grab a tent footprint too, to prolong the life of your tent.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Sleeping pad
Getting a good night’s rest after hiking the whole day is essential. The Sea To Summit Ultralight sleeping pad will not only keep you insulated from the ground, but it will keep you comfy too. My advice is to go with the larger size.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Camping stove
The folding MSR pocket rocket is my constant companion that provides daily hot meals in the backcountry. For its small size, it is incredibly efficient and it supports a wide range of camping pots.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Camping pot
Many companies offer pot sets however over the years I noticed that one pot is more than enough to cook a meal or make a hot cup of tea. I have the Sea To Summit Lightweight Aluminium Pot.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Water filter
The water filtering system is essential to avoid waterborne diseases such as Giardia. I use the lightweight Platypus GravityWorks. Although the initial cost is higher than other options (e.g. tablets), in the long run, the cost per liter is unbeatable.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Solar lantern
One of the best gifts I’ve ever received. The LuminAid solar lantern is always attached to the outside of my backpack where it recharges during the day. The light it gives is enough to play games in the tent or cook dinner in the evening.
Get it on Amazon
Tonquin Valley Trail: stages breakdown
Below is a map of my trip to the Tonquin Valley. You can click on the individual stages to see the names and stats for each section.
Day 1 (stage 1): Astoria Trailhead to Astoria Campsite
Distance: 6.9 km / 4.3 mi
Elevation gain: 82 m / 270 ft
Time required: 2-2.5 hours
As you start the trail, the first breathtaking view comes after around 100m: Cavell Lake. Early in the morning, as the first light strikes Mount Edith Cavell and the calm atmosphere casts beautiful reflections on the water, the snow-capped peak above the Cavell Glacier glistens in the distance. This is one of the most photogenic spots in Jasper National Park.
As you walk along the slightly undulating path, the mountain vistas occasionally peek out, offering brief glimpses of domineering peaks through the trees.
Upon reaching the Astoria Campsite after around 2 hours, the picnic tables overlooking the Astoria River are a great spot for a lunch or snack.
Most people will find that the Astoria campsite, at around 7 kilometres (ca. 4.5 miles) in, is too close to the trailhead to be considered useful unless you plan on starting the hike late in the afternoon.
Day 1 (stage 2): Astoria Campground to Surprise Point or Clitheroe/Switchback Campsites
Distance: 9.8 km / 6.1 mi (total for the day 16.7 km / 10.4 mi)
Elevation gain: 338 m / 1110 ft (total for the day 420 m / 1380 ft)
Time required: 3-3.5 hours (total for the day 5-6 hours)
From Astoria Campground, the trail hugs the river for another 1.5 kilometres until you reach a fork.
At the fork, a left turn will take you across a bridge and around Chrome Lake. If you booked your first night at Surprise Point campsite, then consider this route.
It’s slightly shorter and has a more gradual rise. This is also the most direct route for those going to the Wates-Gibson Hut.
If your first campsite reservation is at the Switchback (or Clitheroe) campsite, stick to the main path with the river on your left. The trail heads up a moderate series of switchbacks, broken by large boulder fields where cute, mini-elephant-like Pika scurry around.
You’ll arrive at the Switchback Campsite after around 4/5 hours total. Clitheroe is only 3.5km away, or another hour.
Most of the path from the trailhead to Switchback lies within the treeline, with brief moments of wonderful views; however, there’s more to come, I promise.
Around the middle of July, the local Grouse hatch and produce the cutest offspring. They use man-made paths to navigate the forest floor, so keep your eyes open.
Extension Day 2: Surprise Point – Eremite Valley – Wates Gibson Hut – Surprise Point
Distance: 10.7 km / 6.7 mi
Elevation gain: 290 m / 950 ft
Time required: 3-3.5 hours
If you stay your first night at Surprise Point, you are in the perfect spot for exploring the Eremite Valley. Do it in the morning before packing up and moving to Amethyst Lakes for your second night.
TIP: There is no point in bringing your things with you as you will be going in the opposite direction and coming back the same way. Besides, with a much lighter load, you can appreciate the surroundings effortlessly. Pack up your camp and put your things into a bear locker. You can pick them up after you complete the extension.
The Eremite Valley (photo above) is a one-way-in, one-way-out, mostly flat hike that offers jaw-dropping views of several small glaciers that call the Ramparts Mountain Range home.
Also, a chance to admire several glacial moraines that were deposited after the Little Ice Age in the 17th century. Depending on how much energy you have, the trail into the Eremite Valley can be lengthened or shortened to meet your requirements.
Day 2: Surprise Point to Amethyst Lakes campsite
Distance: 3.5 km / 2.2 mi
Elevation gain: 30 m / 100 ft
Time required: 1 hour
Upon returning after a day of exploring, it’s time to move to the next campsite. From Surprise Point, the southern tip of Amethyst Lake is a short walk away.
Early in the morning, there are several reflecting bays, and the mouth of the Astoria River is a common spot to watch bears fishing for rainbow or brook trout.
To reach the Amethyst Lakes campsite, you need to follow the boot trodden path first up to Clitheroe campsite, then down to Amethyst Lakes.
The Amethyst campground is the highlight of the entire Tonquin Valley; the Ramparts are right in front of you, and you are only a hundred meters away from the lake. Several small swamps, each with a variety of vibrant wildflowers, dot the area, offering stunning photography opportunities.
It’s also where Woodland Caribou, an endangered species, can be seen as they shift grazing zones in September. If you spot one, please keep your distance and do not disturb them. Caribou are critically endangered, and only a handful remain in Jasper National Park.
Day 3: Amethyst Lakes to Portal Campground via Maccarib Pass
Distance: 12.1 km / 7.5 mi
Elevation gain: 230 m / 755 ft
Time required: 3.5-4 hours
From Amethyst, continue north along the shore parallel to the Ramparts. Soon you’ll be close to the Maccarib Campsite, an alternative if Amethyst Lakes Campground is full.
From here continue slowly uphill until climaxing on the top of the Maccarib Pass, the next part of the trail is very scenic as you’ll wind through meadows garnished with more picturesque wildflowers framed beneath numerous mountain peaks.
Way too quickly, you are back amongst the trees, following a babbling brook on the approach to the Portal Campsite.
TIP: If you’re not the fittest of hikers, stay at the Portal Creek campground for the night; if you have the energy to tackle the next 9km, downhill, for two hours, carry on. Days 3 and 4 can be easily connected, totalling 21 kilometres (13 miles), 260 meters (850 feet) of elevation gain, and 740 meters (2430 feet) of elevation loss.
Day 4: Portal Campground to Portal Creek Trailhead
Distance: 9 km / 5.6 mi
Elevation gain: 30 m / 100 ft
Time required: 3-3.5 hours
A final couple of hours is spent along a rocky bank before descending below the tree line, where a tributary of the Fraser River is your route marker.
Before you know it, you’ll be at the trailhead, patting yourself on the back and driving away, successfully having ticked another one of the Canadian Rockies’ most spectacular multi-day hikes off your bucket list.
The entire Tonquin Valley trail is well marked; as with all the hikes in Jasper National Park, I’d find it very surprising if someone managed to lose the path.
Wildlife Warnings
Grizzly bears
I bet you think I’m going to say something about grizzly bears, don’t you? I had a terrifying grizzly encounter on the trail: a sow with two cubs followed me for about 500 m, but it wasn’t the most difficult wildlife experience I had in the Tonquin Valley.
Mosquitos
The mosquitoes here are the real enemy. During the early summer months of June and July, these aggressive little creatures swarm around you, trying their hardest to suck your blood. Their lives depend on it, so, as you can imagine, they try pretty hard. If you can, avoid walking the Tonquin Valley trail during those months!
Otherwise, heed my advice: bring plenty of repellent. We took two full bottles and almost ran out. A mosquito face net (available for a few dollars at outdoor stores in Jasper), a long-sleeved mosquito t-shirt, and long, mosquito-proof pants will also come in handy and save your sanity.
The mosquitoes gradually subside until late August, and by September, there’s generally none left.
Additional tips for backpacking along the Tonquin Valley Trail
Trail reports
Always check the trail reports before leaving to see if there are closures, bear sightings, or weather conditions. You can check all Trail Conditions in Jasper here.
Last-minute cancellations
If you don’t have a booking, all is not lost. Keep checking the reservation system as cancellations do occur on this trail.
Sun protection
The sun at these altitudes can be fierce; take a sun hat, UV-protected sunglasses, and sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.
Great overview of this hike! With the Astoria trailhead being closed from the 2024 wildfire, can you recommend an out- and back again itinerary from the Portal trailhead?
Thanks Ann. If I were to go from Portal trailhead I would recommend booking Portal campsite then 2-3 nights at Amethyst Lakes from where you can do day hikes and then once again one more night at Portal trailhead. I hope that helps!
A few years back I went to Tonquin along Portal Creek and we went in July just after “snowbound” label was removed at the tourist info center. On the way out we hit a blizzard. Be prepared.
Hi Jane. Thanks for your input. One has to be prepared for weather conditions at all time when heading into the backcountry 🙂
Great article! Just a heads up that the Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge no longer exists; it was bought out by Parks Canada and closed down in an effort to preserve critical land for caribou.
Hi Elya. Thanks so much for letting me know. I just googled it and read about it. Pretty good stuff. I will update the article accordingly.
Is that price for the Wates-Gibson correct? You wrote the price/hut/night is $500 for Alpine Club Canada Members or $550 for Non-Members but the website says its only $50 per night for non-members and $40 for members.
Hi Christina. Thanks for visiting my site. These were still the prices for 2022 when there were restrictions in place due to the pandemic and it was only possible to book the entire hut. These restrictions were taken down this year and it wasn’t announced until recently. I have now updated the pricing for the Wates-Gibson hut. Thanks for pointing it out to me!
Thanks Marta! Great post. I thought I had researched my trip quite well but some more stuff I found really helpful was the eremite valley side trip, the shortcut in front of Clitheroe campsite and also to try and look out for the bears catching salmon at the mouth of the Astoria river. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the feedback Ben! I hope you have an amazing trip to Tonquin Valley. I love this place!