Via Ferrata degli Alleghesi to the summit of Monte Civetta is one of the most demanding ferratas I have done. It requires experience and organisational skills. It also involves an overnight stay in a hut, and the route is tied to gondola operating times. Whilst the scrambling isn’t overly technical, the sheer length and elevation gain along this route make this an exciting excursion for serious adventurers.
Total round-trip distance
16.4 kilometres/ 10.2 miles
Elevation gain
1570 meters / 5150 feet
Difficulty
Advanced (C/D)
Time required
9-10 hours
Overview of the via ferrata
Via Ferrata Degli Alleghesi is a long scrambling route that leads to the summit of the 6th highest peak in the Italian Dolomites: Monte Civetta (3220 m). I first laid eyes on this mountain and its mean-looking northern face from the summit of Monte Lagazuoi, and at that time I thought it was unscalable for someone like me, who doesn’t have any climbing experience.
Luckily, soon after, I learned that there is a via ferrata route that leads to its summit. Whilst it is certainly not a beginner route, with some via ferrata experience and a vertigo-free mind, it is absolutely doable. Due to its long approach and descent, via ferrata Degli Alleghesi should only be considered by those who are either fast or plan to spend at least one night in one of the two huts along the route.
The map & elevation profile
Important info about the via ferrata
When researching this ferrata, all the material I found described the route as unprotected, requiring path-finding skills. However, recent improvements changed all this. Today, the route is well protected in all situations, and the path is clear with apparent markings. That said, this route is considered advanced (C/D rating), and there is plenty of time spent scrambling. Given the significant elevation gain, you should only tackle it if you are fit. The summit is only accessible between the beginning of July and the end of September. This also corresponds with the openings of the mountain huts along the route.
When to go: July-September
Via ferrata exposition: North, East
Trail numbers: 561, 556, 557
Map required: Tabacco 015 (Marmolada, Pelmo, Civetta)
Highest point: 3220 meters / 10564 feet
Parking: Parcheggio Impianti
Trailhead: Top of the Col Dei Baldi Gondola
Nearest towns: Alleghe, Pecol
Getting there
You can reach both trailheads for via ferrata Degli Alleghesi either by car or public transport. Here is how.
By bus
The nearest bus stop to the bottom of the Col Dei Baldi gondola is called Alleghe, and it is a 5-minute walk from the station. Bus no. 3 from the Dolomiti Bus company travels to Alleghe from Agordo.
If you want to reach Rifugio Palafavera, you have to take bus no. 25 and get off at Palafavera al Fonte bus stop.
By car
It is generally safe to leave the car at trailheads overnight. There is paid parking at the bottom of the gondola in Alleghe, as well as a big parking lot near Rifugio Palafavera.
Stages of the via ferrata
Stage 1: Approach from the top of the Col Dei Baldi Gondola to Rifugio Coldai
- Distance: 2.8 km (1.74 mi)
- Elevation gain: 280 m (920 ft)
- Time required: 1 hour
Take the two-tiered gondola Pian di Pezzè—Col Dei Baldi from Alleghe, then follow the signs for Rifugio Coldai. The hike starts downhill on the access road, then turns onto path 561 and switches back uphill on path 556. You should reach the hut within 60 minutes.
TIP: Both gondolas operate from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. This 9-hour gap generally does not leave enough time to complete this route unless you are incredibly fast. Even if you hike at lightning speed, this allows for no contingency. I strongly recommend an overnight stay along the route in Rifugio Coldai or Torrani (or both).
Stage 2: Rifugio Coldai to the start of the via ferrata
- Distance: 2.8 km (1.74 mi)
- Elevation gain: 260 m (850 ft)
- Time required: 1 hour
From Rifugio Coldai, the path to the start of Via Ferrata Degli Alleghesi is well signposted. It begins just behind the refuge. First, you must follow path number 557, also called Sentiero Tivan. For the first 30 minutes, it undulates, showing off the striking faces of Monte Pelmo to the southeast. Not before long, the route steepens and crosses a few short sections protected with cables before gradually easing again.
Gearing up for these small sections isn’t necessary, but you have the equipment, so you might as well use it. I am always a big advocate for being safe rather than sorry. Things can go wrong quickly in the mountains. About 45 minutes after leaving Rifugio Coldai, the path branches off from Sentiero Tivan and a spray-painted sign on rock points toward Via Ferrata Degli Alleghesi. After another 15-20 minutes, you will reach the cables and ladders, where the fun begins.
Stage 3: Via Ferrata Degli Alleghesi to the Monte Civetta summit
- Distance: 1.7 km (1.05 mi)
- Elevation gain: 820 m (2700 ft)
- Time required: 2.5 hours
The route rises quickly between intermittent sections of cable-secured scrambling and hiking along narrow ledges. The red spray-painted route markers are found close together, making it almost impossible to lose the route (unless you are not paying attention to where you are going).
The summit is wide and open, making it a great place for a longer break. If you have good weather, take photos immediately because clouds can build up rapidly at this elevation. Try to locate Lake Alleghe from the top. It’s almost 2000 meters (or 6500 feet) vertical meters below and looks minuscule from the summit; I honestly couldn’t believe it was the same lake.
Stage 4: Descent from the Monte Civetta summit to Rifugio Torrani
- Distance: 0.5 km (0.3 mi)
- Elevation loss: 240 m (790 ft)
- Time required: 30 minutes
The descent from the summit follows a different route, beginning with a well-marked scree slope to Rifugio Torrani. It’s not a pleasant gradient; your tired knees will notice it. After around 30 minutes, you’ll veer leftward and will be able to spot the refuge, but you will probably hear its loud generator first, as I did.
Stage 5: Descent from Rifugio Torrani to Col Dei Baldi gondola across Via Ferrata Normale
- Distance: 7.9 km (4.9 mi)
- Elevation loss: 1240 m (4070 ft)
- Time required: 4 hours
To continue your descent from Rifugio Torrani, follow the markings for Via Normale, which is a via ferrata in its own right. Firstly, it heads down a steep slope before more complicated down-climbing sections become apparent.
The down-climbing here is arguably the most challenging part of the entire circuit, but again, the insertion of pegs and iron rods makes it achievable. After about 2 hours and a short crossing of a snowfield, the route rejoins Sentiero Tivan (path 557) and undulates back to Rifugio Coldai. From there, reaching the gondola or Rifugio Palafavera (depending on where you start) will take another hour.
Alternative Approach to Rifugio Coldai
If you don’t want to be tied to a gondola schedule, you can start the hike to Rifugio Coldai from the parking lot near Rifugio Palafavera in the Zoldo Valley (refer to the map). However, bear in mind that following this route will bring the total distance, including via ferrata Degli Alleghesi, to 20.7 kilometres (12.9 miles) with 1800 meters (5900 feet) of elevation gain.
- Distance (Rifugio Palafavera to Rifugio Coldai): 5.3 km (3.3 mi)
- Elevation gain: 590 m (1935 ft)
- Time required: 1.5-2 hours
Overnight stay & dining possibilities
As I already mentioned, considering this route’s length and elevation gain, tackling Via Ferrata Degli Alleghesi in one day is only recommended to those who are super fit and can crush average times. Otherwise, returning to the gondola in time for the last lift will be a challenge.
There are two mountain huts along the route. The first one is Rifugio Adolfo Sonino al Coldai (or simply just Coldai). The hut lies at 2135 meters and has lovely views of Monte Pelmo and the Zoldo Valley. If you are planning a late start, it’s best to book a night here, then tackle via ferrata Degli Alleghesi with an early start the morning after. Coldai mountain hut lies along Alta Via 1, so spots here book out very quickly. Make sure to reserve early.
The Torrani mountain hut is your second option for an overnight stay along via ferrata Degli Alleghesi. Located at 2984 meters, it is not only one of the highest mountain huts in the Dolomites, but it’s also one of the quirkiest! It stays open for only three months of the year, usually between July and September when the route is clear of snow.
The hut is run by a music-loving Italian man who does everything from cooking and cleaning to maintenance and entertaining his guests. I must say his cake-baking skills aren’t too bad either, considering the limited resources he has at this altitude.
Be it for better or for worse, it’s not like any other refuge I’ve stayed in, and although I thoroughly enjoyed my experience, I understand that it’s not to everyone’s taste. Seemingly very unorganised, quintessentially Italian.
Rifugio Torrani belongs to the Veneto section of the Italian Alpine Club. You can e-mail the warden to book the hut (vdebona@libero.it). Once the summer season kicks off, it is better to call directly.
If you have the luxury of time, stay in both huts and experience what the Italian huts are all about! I have compiled an article about everything you need to know before staying in a mountain hut in the Dolomites.
Where to stay nearby
If you choose the approach to the via ferrata Degli Alleghesi using the gondola, then I would recommend staying the night before Alleghe. Alleghe is a lovely town (one of my favourites in the Dolomites) built right at the foot of Monte Civetta and on the shore of the turquoise lake Alleghe.
Best Value
Very convenient beachfront location with access to town cafes and restaurants. The Gondola is only a 10-minute walk away.
Top Rated
Modern amenities meet old alpine charm. This newly renovated hotel is right in the centre of Alleghe.
Other activities nearby
Travel resources for the Dolomites
Shop my via ferrata gear essentials
Black Diamond Helmet
Rockfall is a significant concern on via ferrata routes. Unbeknownst to you, other climbing groups above you may accidentally dislodge a small rock and send it down the mountain. If it hits you on the head, it could have serious consequences. A helmet on your head (not inside your backpack) is necessary.
Shop on: Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Black Diamond Momentum Harness
Another must-have on a via ferrata route is a climbing harness. A harness works as an anchor point for your via ferrata lanyard. Try it before your trip to ensure it fits snugly without limiting your movements. Aim for a lightweight harness that will be comfortable to wear between the cable-protected sections when hiking.
- Shop Women’s on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
- Shop Men’s on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Edelrid, Camp or Black Diamond Via Ferrata Lanyard
A via ferrata lanyard connects the climber and their harness to the cables along the route. Its two arms and a hidden extra coil work as an energy absorption system in case of a fall. The two carabiners at the end of the lanyard clip into the cable. Make sure the carabiners are equipped with the palm squeeze mechanism. It’s the safest and most comfortable.
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Black Diamond Crag Gloves
The gloves protect your hands from cuts and scratches you may otherwise get if you haul yourself on the cable without them. I prefer full-finger gloves for extra protection against blisters. If your hands sweat quickly, go for the fingerless version.
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Salewa Wildfire Edge Approach Shoes
This is my go-to pair of hiking shoes for more accessible trails or via ferrata, where I don’t need extra ankle support. They provide excellent grip on the rock and are very durable.
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Reeloq Smartphone Securing System
If you want to take great photos on a via ferrata without worrying about losing your phone, Reeloq is the best tool for it. It’s a smartphone-securing system that allows you to use your phone on any adventure. This has been a great addition to my tool arsenal.
Shop on: REELOQ
More travel and hiking resources in the Dolomites
- Photography spots in the Italian Dolomites
- Regions in the Italian Dolomites
- Itineraries for the Italian Dolomites
- Via ferratas in the Italian Dolomites
- Day hikes in the Italian Dolomites
- Hut-to-hut treks in the Italian Dolomites
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If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below!
Good morning, I read your article very carefully. Me and my husband want to do exactly the same route in August with the difference that we will start it from Pecol/Mareson following the path 587 and then 557 until the beginning of the Via Ferrata Alleghesi. We hope to reach the Vittorio Torrani refuge in 10 hours. We have mountaineering experience, we just haven’t done via ferrata before. I wanted to ask you if it is more difficult than the via ferrata normale that they will do on the way down.
And have you made a reservation for the shelter yet, in what way? I try to call but no one answers
Thank you for your time,
Korina
Hi Korina. Thanks for visiting. Yes, I would definitely recommend going up degli alleghesi route and using the VF normale to get down. The first one is harder and it wouldn’t be fun downclimbing it.
You are looking at around 1700 meters of elevation gain from rif. Palafavera near Mareson (I presume that’s where you start) to the summit of Civetta. That’s around 5-6 hours going up). I think you could reach torrani quicker. As for reservations, have you tried emailing? the refuge opens on July 1st so I would email first. (vdebona@libero.it). That’s the email from CAI website. Check your spam folder for any replies. I hope that helps!
Thank you Marta for the information you have given me and especially for the communication with the Torrani shelter.
We will not start from Palfavera, we will start from Mareson – Pecol and we will have about 6 km to the point where VF Alleghesi starts. So we estimate 2-2.30 hours to where VF Alleghesi starts. From there to the top how long can it take us??
Hi Korina. I have not walked the route from Mareson. It looks like you will have a total of 2000 meters of elevation gain to reach the summit which is a lot. If I was to estimate this kind of elevation doing it myself it would probably take me ca. 6 hours (not including breaks). That is just a very rough estimate though. I cannot tell you how much it will take you because I simply don’t know how fast you are 🙂
Hello Marta. Your post about Alta via 4 was the thing that got me started on hiking in the Dolomites and what an adventure! So thank you so much your work here, it is so inspirational and helpful.
Me and my partner are planing to walk the Alta via 3 with a small detour to Civetta. My only problem is that i cant seem to figure out how exposed this route really is. I have a fear of heights,(which i hate and i am really working on it) But as long as i do not climb vertically i am okay. This is also why i didn’t take the ferrata Vandelli on Alta via 4 because you look straight down for many meters, and that’s where my anxiety hits. Would you say this is just as exposed? Hope you can help me:) really want to visist this mountain but also be conscious about what i am doing. Thanks again for everything – Louise
Hi Louise. Thanks for stopping by and sorry for the late reply. Mount Civetta lies along the Alta Via 1. Alta Via 3 actually intersects with Alta Via 4 from the Vandelli refuge onwards.
Degli Alleghesi is an advanced ferrata and definitely not for the faint hearted. Not only you need to climb up the mountain but also downclimbing is involved which in a way is harder. I would say it is harder than Vandelli. An amazing via ferrata that I would recommend looking into that might be able to help you with heights is Via Ferrata Strada Degli Alpini. It is beginner, but it does walk along ledges with huge drop on the side. The ledges are wide though so your feet are always sturdy.
Hey Marta. Thank you so much for your reply. i am in pretty good shape, dont mind that it is hard, all the webistes say that its not hard technically though. But for me its the huge drops where i can look far with narrow ledges i’m scared of. So this Civetta ferrata is not for me you would say?
Hi Louise. Just a quick question (Don’t get me wrong) Did you study the images of this via ferratas in my article to give yourself an idea on how many vertical drops there are in this route? I think that will give you a pretty clear answer.
Hi Marta,
Thank you so much for creating the above blog! It really got us inspired to go via feratta in Dolomites. Just have one question – any idea how busy it gets in Dolomites (Cortina area) in the middle of July? Someone has mentioned it gets unbearable in the summer. We’re looking mainly at intermediate and possibly one or two advanced ferattas. What is your experience? Many thanks. Radka
Hi Radka. Thanks for visiting. It is busy but not unberable. If you decide to hike a trail like Lake Sorapiss or Lagazuoi in the middle of July then yes you won’t find solitude that people search for in the mountains, but via ferratas are significantly quieter than hiking trails.
Well of course, but it is always hard to tel how far the drop is on pictures, same goes ffor the youtube videoes, some look more dramatic then the actual ferratas i did. i will rather take your word and experience:)
Gotcha. I don’t know what ferratas you have done before. Technically this isn’t tough (but via ferratas are not climbing routes, they are not technical) There are however moment when you are standing on an iron rod with a long drop down below. I really cannot tell a stranger on the internet what they are capable of, this is something you only know yourself.
Not really sure if you read my messages or just misunderstood. I really like your blog and it seems like you put a lot of care and effort into it. But this was a somehow unpleasant convo. Take care
Hi Louise. I took time, have read and responded every single of your comments. I thought I responded the first one extensively, yet in the following comment you asked exactly the same question. In the following answer I even put in the brackets “please don’t get this the wrong way”. In the end I really can’t tell someone what they are capable of. If I tell you sure, go and then you get stuck in the middle of a ferrata I will be the one to blame. I’ve had a terrible accident in the mountains myself and would never ever push someone above their limits. I am not sure why you thought I was unpleasant. Written words can be read differently than spoken words can be heard. I hope you have a great trip and stay within your limits.
Thanks for the great write up – your photos inspired us and the description was excellent. We completed the route walking in from Malga Vescova at 06.50 and returned back to the car at 5pm – exhausted but accomplished. We allowed time for a snack on the ascent and a long break for lunch at the summit.
It is certainly a big day and a good weather window is essential. The route Ferrata was also quite busy with other people, there are some points to safely pass but I can imagine elsewhere it could be difficult. I think it would be helpful to factor in additional time to safeguard against being potentially caught behind another group(s).
Thanks again for your write up. It wasn’t in our guide book so without seeing your post we would have missed out on an excellent adventure.
Jacki
Hi Jacki. Thanks so much for taking the time to write a feedback. I am sure it will be helpful for others. 10 hours is a very good time for going up and back. It’s a heck of an elevation gain. I was happy to have a night in the hut in between. I am glad my website contributed to another great adventure. I hope this was not your last time in the Dolomites.
Hi Marta,
Thanks for the write up and all the nice photos.
Another option for starting and finishing is the campground at Palafavera. This was my first via ferrata in Italy, and it took 9h15m from the campground and back using the same route you took (plus the walk up and down from Coldai — the gondolas weren’t running (maybe they start in July?)). Two other more experienced via ferrata climbers went up the same day I did, and they were faster — 8h30m.
It’s a long day but no so long, and you don’t need to worry about reservations since you’re not using the huts. Maybe that helps someone.
A warning for bicyclists: there’s a 5km section of road between Igne and Mezzocanale that is closed to cyclists. We had to ride illegally to reach Palafavera from Longarone. 🙁
Bryan
Hi Bryan! Thanks for visiting. Yes, I hiked from Palafavera to Coldai when doing the AV1 traverse. It’s definitely more elevation gain comparing to taking the gondola, but as you said, one isn’t pressed for time with the gondola schedule. Leaving very early is essential though! 9h15 min is a fantastic time! Well done! Thanks for your input. I am sure it will come in handy for others.