Summit Adventure To Tofana Di Rozes Along Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella

Stage 1: Approach hike from Rifugio Dibona to the tunnel entry

• Distance: 2.7 km
• Elevation gain: 400 m
• Time required: 1-1.5 hours

The approach leaves Rifugio Dibona’s hut on a wide track and gradually gains elevation before reaching a tiny hut where path no. 404 seemingly begins.

With Monte Antelao to your back, be careful not to break your neck straining for a good view as you pass sections of a vast rock that make up the base of Tofana di Rozes. The view southward to Cinque Torri, Monte Averau, Ra Gusela, and Southwest Marmolada, the Queen of the Dolomites, is equally impressive as the slabs above.

The path undulates and meanders for around an hour and a half. It’s not often that I say this, as I generally find the routes in the Dolomites very well marked, but somehow I did manage to miss the start of the cables. Luckily, I had my GPS, which brought me back on the right path. 

TIP: Learn from my mistake, and don’t miss the tunnel entry. Look out for the two memorial plaques (see one of them pictured above). They mark the start of the via ferrata and the tunnel entry. 

Stage 2: The tunnels and Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella

• Distance: 2.8 km
• Elevation gain: 670 m
• Time required: 2-2.5 hours

While it is unnecessary to kit up entirely at first, as you will be going into the tunnels, the broad base below the first ladder provides plenty of room. At the very least, put on your helmet and head torch. You will need them. It is pitch black in the tunnels.

Two ladders mark the tunnel entry. You will continue up a long staircase in a 500-meter-long subterranean tunnel. It is damp and dark inside, so put on another layer before entering the tunnels. Bringing gloves isn’t a bad idea either (I always pack my scrambling gloves). Don’t worry, though; it’s not the type of tunnels you have to crawl through; they are big enough for a grown person to stand up in.

Upon emerging back into the sunlight, it’s still another 15 minutes before the start of the real scrambling. After the tunnels, the path loses a lot of elevation, so it may be counterintuitive to walk down when the target is the summit high above you.

Many desired lines can be seen venturing off to indistinct rock faces in search of the route, so make sure to pay attention to the paint marks on the rocks.

The scrambling is decent grade but not strenuous. To begin with, there are many areas where meltwater pours over black rock, creating slippery (but always well-protected) traverses. On a hot day, you’ll welcome a quick shower.

As the pathway widens, you pass under a thick overhang, round a scenic corner, and climb more steeply. Eventually, you’ll reach a fork marked “Cima” to the right and “Cantore” to the left. The latter makes for a handy escape route if the weather takes a turn for the worse.

“Cantore” refers to Rifugio Cantore, which lies just below Rifugio Guissani but has not been operational for many years. “Cima”, which translates to the summit in Italian, is your route and refers to the peak of Tofana di Rozes.

The path then heads diagonally up a section known as the ‘amphitheatre’ and includes a few short vertical ascents. This is undoubtedly the most challenging part of the climb. 

Stage 3: The summit push

• Distance: 600 m (0.4 mi)
• Elevation gain: 150 m
• Time required: 30 min

Above these, the route plateaus and combines with the hiking route along a scree slope up to the summit of Tofana. From Rifugio Dibona to the summit, it should take 4 to 5 hours (3 if you are a mountain goat). 

Although this last part of the ascent up to the summit isn’t exciting, the views from the top of Tofana are phenomenal, so the scree-ridden switchbacks are somewhat of a necessary evil. Around 10 minutes away from the summit, you will be able to spot the massive iron cross. 

Stage 4: Descent to Rifugio Giussani:

• Distance: 2.3 km
• Elevation loss: 580 m
• Time required: 1.5 hours

Once you’ve filled your summit vistas, begin the walk down. Initially, the descent retraces your previous steps before continuing on scree switchbacks to the Fontananegra saddle. Trust me when I say this: your legs will burn. 

Rifugio Giussani is located on the Fontananegra saddle. You will be able to spot it on the descent from the summit. Bring cash and enjoy a cold pint or a proper warm meal from the hut’s restaurant. You’ve got to love the Dolomites for their hut system.

Descent Rifugio Giussani to Rifugio Dibona:

• Distance: 3.1 km
• Elevation loss: 530 m
• Time required: 1-1.5 hours

From Rifugio Giussani, take the extensive, well-trodden zig-zag path no. 403, back down to Rifugio Dibona, where you started. You should reach it within 60-90 minutes of leaving the Giussani hut.