I firmly believe that the more work you put into something, the greater the reward. This couldn’t be truer with via ferrata Marino Bianchi. The initial approach through a scree-filled valley will test your patience and calf strength. The reward comes in the form of 360-degree views over the Dolomites and an off-the-beaten-path experience far from the tourist crowds.
Total round-trip distance
6.1 kilometres / 3.8 miles
Elevation gain
870 meters / 2850 feet
Difficulty
Intermediate (C)
Time required
5-6 hours
Overview of the via ferrata
The Via Ferrata Marino Bianchi is a high-altitude route on the Cristallo massif near Cortina d’Ampezzo. It follows an exposed ridge to the summit of Cristallo di Mezzo at 3,154 m, featuring ladders, steep rocky sections, and a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of Cortina, the Tofane, Sorapiss, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and Valle di Landro. This route is best suited to via ferrata enthusiasts who have already gained some experience on other beginner routes. Thanks (or because of) the gruelling ascent to the start of the cables, this route is not busy.
From the former Rifugio Lorenzi, the route follows the northwestern ridge towards Cristallo di Mezzo. It is well-equipped with steel cables and several ladders, but the exposure is significant and made me queasy at times, particularly since I took this route at sunrise.
The map & elevation profile
Important info about the via ferrata
The accessibility of this route corresponds to the Rio-Gere-Son Forca chairlift operating time, which usually runs from the end of June until the third week of September; however, I would hold off on going in June, as you may still encounter snowfields in the tight cul-de-sac leading to the Staunies saddle. Another factor to consider is the high-altitude and the Northwest exposure of this ferrata. Routes facing North usually stay inaccessible until July.
Start as early as possible to have the best chance for good weather. The weather in the Dolomites often follows the same pattern, with crystal-clear blue skies in the morning, cloud buildup during the day, and storms by the afternoon.
I also recommend bringing lightweight hiking poles, which you can easily stow away. You will be thankful for them on the approach to Forcella Staunies
When to go: July to September
Via ferrata exposition: Northwest
Map required: Tabacco Map no. 03 Dolomiti Ampezzane
Highest point: 3150 meters / 10335 feet
Parking: Bottom of the Rio Gere chairlift
Trailhead: Top of the Rio Gere chairlift
Nearest towns: Cortina d’Ampezzo
Getting there
To get to the start of the approach hike for the via ferrata Marino Bianchi, you will first need to take a chairlift. During the summer, the lift remains open from the third week of June through the last week of September, providing a 3-month window to tackle the route.
TIPS: Be aware that the chairlift runs only between 8:30 and 16:30. This 8-hour window should be enough to complete the entire route in one day. I recommend purchasing a return ticket right away. If you are budget-conscious, you can also start the hike directly from Passo Tre Croci along path no. 203 al Rifugio Son Forca. This will add circa 300 meters (1000 ft) of elevation gain, 6 kilometres (3.7 miles) and a couple of hours to an already long day. I only recommend this option if you plan to stay overnight at Rifugio Son Forca.
By bus
Use public transport to reach the bottom of the chairlift. Bus no. 030, operated by Dolomiti Bus, runs from Cortina. The bus stop’s name is Rio Gere. The journey time is 16 minutes. Check schedules here or on Google Maps.
By car
The Rio Gere—Son Forca chairlift is a 15-minute (8 km) drive from Cortina d’Ampezzo towards Passo Tre Croci. An ample parking area is on the opposite side of the road from the chairlift. Follow the link for directions.
Stages of the via ferrata
Approach: Top of the Son Forca chairlift to Staunies saddle
- Distance: 2.4 km (1.5 mi)
- Elevation gain: 700 m (2300 ft)
- Time required: 2-2.5 hours
From Rifugio Son Forca, you must follow the signs for Rifugio Lorenzi & Via Ferrata Marino Bianchi. The path leads through a tight scree gully with dramatic views towards the Tofane group and Monte Pelmo. Another lift could have bypassed this part of the approach until 2016. However, the lift has been closed for over a decade, and there is no prospect of it reopening soon. If it weren’t for the views reminding me every step of the way why I am putting myself through this torture, I would have probably given up.
The screen becomes looser as you go higher, setting you back one step for every two steps you take forward. In other words, it’s arduous work. After ca. 2 hours, you should reach the saddle & Rifugio Lorenzi. The hut’s location makes it one of the most photogenic in the Dolomites. Unfortunately, it no longer operates, and it is slowly decaying. Warning signs have been placed to remind you to be careful when walking on its terrace. Some planks have become loose, and the whole construction doesn’t feel sturdy.
Should you choose to break the journey down into two days, there is still a tiny winter room where you can spend the night. This is especially useful if you want to kill two birds with one stone and tackle the nearby via Ferrata Ivano Dibona. It has two beds and a few blankets, but no electricity or other amenities. There is also no water source anywhere near. We shared it with another couple. It was a tight squeeze, but we managed.
Via Ferrata: Staunies saddle to Cristallo di Mezzo and back
- Distance: 1.5 km (0.9 mi)
- Elevation gain: 160 m (525 ft)
- Elevation loss: 160 m (525 ft)
- Time required: 1.5-2 hours
I hope you are ready for some severe exposure. You will be thankful for all the cable protection, especially along the sharp summit ridgeline.
From the summit of Cristallo di Mezzo at 3,154 m, you will have a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of Cortina, the Tofane, Sorapiss, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and Valle di Landro.
It is important to note that the descent involves returning along the ferrata, including its exposed sections. For some, including myself, climbing down was more difficult than going up.
Descent: Staunies Saddle to the top of the Rio Gere-Son Forca chairlift
- Distance: 2.4 km (1.5 mi)
- Elevation loss: 700 m (2300 ft)
- Time required: 1.5 hours
Once you reach the Staunies saddle, retrace your journey down the scree gully between Rifugios Lorenzi and Son Forca. The good news is that the way down will be much swifter than the way up. I used my hiking poles well and decided to run back down, taking significant steps. Within 45 minutes, I was back at Son Forca hut.
Possible extension
Are you an ultra-marathon trail runner who hits the gym after running up a mountain? Was the fix of the good views not enough so far? Or do you want to stand in the exact spot where Sylvester Stallone stood fighting some badass villain in the Cliffhanger movie?
Once you make it back down from the summit of Cristallo di Mezzo, you can head across to the other side of Forcella Staunies and hike to the famous suspension bridge along the via ferrata Ivano Dibona.
The short detour is well worth it. It will only take around 1 hour. You can follow the via ferrata Ivano Dibona until Forcella Grande saddle, then use the early escape route to get back to Rifugio Son Forca.
Overnight stay & dining possibilities
Rifugio Son Forca is a privately operated hut near the top of the Rio Gere—Son Forca chairlift station. Visit the website for the complete price list and to book. Staying overnight in the hut is an excellent idea if you want to start the via ferrata early in the morning or combine it with the via ferrata Ivano Dibona, which also starts here.
The second hut along the route is Rifugio Lorenzi (pictured above), located at the Staunies saddle. Unfortunately, this alpine hut has been out of operation for over 10 years now and, quite frankly, you shouldn’t go anywhere near it. Its slow decay makes it dangerous.
Where to stay nearby
Via ferrata Marino Bianchi is located in the Monte Cristallo range in the centre of the Italian Dolomites. The nearest town where you can base yourself is Cortina d’Ampezzo. Below are a few of my recommendations for hotels and lodges in Cortina.
Read more: Guide to Cortina D’Ampezzo: Best Hikes, Via Ferratas & Photography Locations.
Best Value
A welcoming, family-run hotel just a 10-minute walk from the centre of Cortina d’Ampezzo, offering comfortable rooms, mountain views, private parking, and a delicious breakfast surrounded by the spectacular Dolomites.
Top Rated
This hotel combines traditional alpine warmth with contemporary design, offering stylish accommodation, wellness facilities, excellent dining, and spectacular views of the Ampezzo Dolomites.
Other activities nearby
Travel resources for the Dolomites
Shop my via ferrata gear essentials
Black Diamond Helmet
Rockfall is a significant concern on via ferrata routes. Unbeknownst to you, other climbing groups above you may accidentally dislodge a small rock and send it down the mountain. If it hits you on the head, it could have serious consequences. A helmet on your head (not inside your backpack) is necessary.
Shop on: Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Black Diamond Momentum Harness
Another must-have on a via ferrata route is a climbing harness. A harness works as an anchor point for your via ferrata lanyard. Try it before your trip to ensure it fits snugly without limiting your movements. Aim for a lightweight harness that will be comfortable to wear between the cable-protected sections when hiking.
- Shop Women’s on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
- Shop Men’s on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Edelrid, Camp or Black Diamond Via Ferrata Lanyard
A via ferrata lanyard connects the climber and their harness to the cables along the route. Its two arms and a hidden extra coil work as an energy absorption system in case of a fall. The two carabiners at the end of the lanyard clip into the cable. Make sure the carabiners are equipped with the palm squeeze mechanism. It’s the safest and most comfortable.
Shop on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Black Diamond Crag Gloves
The gloves protect your hands from cuts and scratches you may otherwise get if you haul yourself on the cable without them. I prefer full-finger gloves for extra protection against blisters. If your hands sweat quickly, go for the fingerless version.
Shop on: Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Salewa Wildfire Edge Approach Shoes
This is my go-to pair of hiking shoes for more accessible trails or via ferrata, where I don’t need extra ankle support. They provide excellent grip on the rock and are very durable.
Shop on: Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Reeloq Smartphone Securing System
If you want to take great photos on a via ferrata without worrying about losing your phone, Reeloq is the best tool for it. It’s a smartphone-securing system that allows you to use your phone on any adventure. This has been a great addition to my tool arsenal.
Shop on: REELOQ
Other hikes and via ferrata near Cortina D’Ampezzo
More travel and hiking resources in the Dolomites
- Photography spots in the Italian Dolomites
- Regions in the Italian Dolomites
- Itineraries for the Italian Dolomites
- Via ferratas in the Italian Dolomites
- Day hikes in the Italian Dolomites
- Hut-to-hut treks in the Italian Dolomites
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If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below!
Hi Marta!
My wife and I are headed to Dolomites and Tyrol areas next month. Thanks for all of your posts, it’s been very helpful in our planning. Hopefully we will be able to get Marino Bianchi in, but it’s a big trip already! Have you had a chance to climb the Stubai glacier ferrata?
Thanks!
-Jeff
Hi Jeff. I live in Tyrol and have done quite a few ferratas in the area, but none in the Stubai Valley so far. Have fun on your trip!
Hello again!
Your post was so helpful for our adventures! Marino Bianchi was great, the scree wasn’t so bad on the way up but oh my was that a long slog. We went to see the bridge on Ivano Diabona for kicks. Ra Bujela was a great warm up on our first afternoon in town, and we did Punta Ana/Giuseppe di Olivieri today. Lagazuoi Tunnels tomorrow and then to Tyrol! Thanks again for all of your posts.
Hi Jeff! Amazing! I am so glad to hear you are having a great time! Enjoy Tirol too! It’s my home 🙂
Klettersteig Innsbruck was great, unfortunately weather came in the next day and we decided to leave to check out Oktoberfest. We’re already planning Alta Via 4 for next year, hoping to find some exciting via ferrata for side trips! Looking at your blog on that right now, thanks so much for doing this!
(a hotel owner we met is one of the Scoiattoli di Cortina and suggested Sci 18 and Tomaselli so we have two more routes to check off next time!)
Hi Jeff. Sci 18 and Tomaselli are both on my list and I was going to tick them off this year in September but I injured my hand and had to change my plans. They are both advanced via ferratas. Alta Via 4 is fantastic and has many great via ferratas along the route. I hope you get to tackle it.
Hi, Marta. Whenever I visit your blog, I am in awe of the photos and info you provide. Thank you again!
I am going to do this via ferrata Marino Bianchi with Ivano Dibona.
I will start around 6am at Passo Tre Croci and walk all the way up to the saddle(Forcella Staunies) and do the Marino Bianch first and back to the saddle and go for Ivano Dibona.
1. How long do you think it takes from the saddle to Cristallo Di Mezzo and back to the saddle?
2. Should I take the same route, back to the saddle? or Should I go further to go back to the saddle?
By the way, I am going to spend the night in Buffa di Perrero Bivacco.
3. By what time do you think I will arrive at the Bicacco, considering I am a just regular fit / mountain lover!
So no worries going back down!
Hi! Thanks for your lovely feedback. I can only tell what it took me. I needed 3 hours from the Saddle to the summit and back to the saddle. Including all the photos along the way.
Yes it is the same route up and down on the Marino Bianchi Via ferrata.
From the Saddle you should count another 2+ hours to the Bivouac. So all in all I reckon I would need around 8-9 hours in total. I consider myself a mid-speed hiker. I hope that helps!
Hi, Marta! I am planning a quick detour to around the Dolomites region first week of June, and was wondering if any of the via ferrata mentioned above is doable between June 3-5th? And if so do you know of any guide or groups available since I’m flying solo?
Oh, and thank you for sharing inspiring adventures. They are all noted down on my bucket list!
Hi Kristina, Thanks for visiting. I can’t predict the snow conditions I am afraid. Generally anything that is South Facing should be doable at this time. Via ferrata Degli Alpini Al Col Dei Bos near Cortina should be. Marino Bianchi is very high so I wouldn’t bet on that one. Especially due to a very long approach.
Another one you should look into near Cortina is Ra Bujela. It’s a short one, but it faces South so there will be no snow on it.
I hope that helps!
This blog is absolutely gorgeous, thanks so much for all the great info and photos!
Thanks Jeff for your lovely feedback!
I just came across your page and I love all of the information. I will be going to the Dolomite region for the first time on 8 November (13 days!!!!). I am not going to do any strenuous climbing, unfortunately, but I will be doing a lot of photography. I am a large format photographer and work with 4×5 inch sheet film. I will be bringing my camera and lots of black and white film with me to shoot as much as I can. I’ve been looking at various areas and the more I look, the more new areas I find. If you only had 1 week and wanted as many beautiful views of the amazing mountains as well as the clouds (to prevent boring skys in photos and to make the images more dramatic) what would you recommend? I will be flying in from Boston in the US into Venice and then renting a car. Would a small rental car be ok? Or should I get something more mid size or larger like SUV?
Hey Michael. Thanks for stopping by on my site. We had some fresh snow on the peaks in recent days and the conditions are amazing. If I only had a week and was looking for places that are easy accessible I think I would head to a town in Val Pusteria (San Candido, Sesto, Dobiacco, Monguelfo). It has access to many amazing spots and a lot of other lovely valleys branch off of it. My second choice would be Val Gardena (great access to Seceda, Alpe Di Siusi or Santa Maddalena – the 3 most beloved locations for photographers). Yes a small car will be ok, as long as it has enough horsepower otherwise you might struggle with driving up the mountain passes. Make sure the car is equipped with a set of snow chains. Carrying snow chains is required from the first week of November until April in the Alpine regions. I hope that helps!
Hi Marta. Back to Cortina again shortly with plans for Marino Bianci, Ivano Dibona and Giovani di Lipella. Returning to your website pretty much daily now in anticipation of the trip. Huge thanks again for all the great info and images. We plan on a bivvy at Rf Lorenzi which should be interesting considering the recent weather but will let you know how we get on! Best wishes. Tom
I am so glad to hear it Tom. Stay safe at rifugio Lorenzi. The last time I was there was almost 4 years ago and the terrace was already in a pretty bad shape. I imagine it has gotten a lot worse since then.
Hi
I used your website to plan a trip to the dolomites a couple of years ago – Giro del Sorapiss in a day (good advice on water!) – and it is great to return to it now to plan for 2023 Great articles and incredible photos – keep up the awesome work.
Best wishes
Hi Tom! Thanks so much for coming back to my site! I will be returning to the Dolomites many times next year as I now am based in Tirol! I can’t wait to explore even more of these ranges.